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🕊️ What's on in Madrid: August 14

The Festival of the Virgin of the Dove is your best excuse to get drunk this weekend.

Madrid | Issue #157

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Here Are 5 Things to Do in Madrid This Weekend

It’s Friday again!

  • And I have great news: The city has shaken off its peaceful slumber and come alive this weekend to reaffirm its Christian traditions by honoring the Virgin of La Paloma with endless beers, tinto de verano, and questionable, greasy pizza at 4 a.m.

  • So come to La Latina this weekend for some drunken shenanigans. Who knows… You may even run into me there! (If you do, please say hello).

  • And one more reminder about our podcast. We’re taking a break this month, but we’re back in September. In the meantime, in our latest episode we discuss what it really means to belong in Spain today and explore one of the country’s biggest identity debates, alongside Sweden’s ambassador to Spain and writer Elizabeth Duval.

Happy weekend!


1. 🎉 Verbena de la Paloma: Madrid’s biggest summer street party takes over La Latina

If you only do one thing this weekend, make it the Verbenas (street parties) de la Virgen de la Paloma. If you thought last weekend was crazy, get ready for this one, because these verbenas, which kicked off last night, are Madrid’s biggest and most beloved summer celebration, the grand finale of the city’s traditional August parties.

  • The streets of La Latina, Las Vistillas, and Plaza de la Paja transform into one giant open-air party for four days, where tradition and nightlife collide, and the streets are decorated with colorful lanterns and drunk people.

  • There will be locals dressed as chulapos and chulapas and couples dancing the chotis, as well as brass bands and organ grinders while people sip chilled tinto de verano from cheap plastic cups.

  • Still want more? There will also be limonada (aka lemonade spiked with white wine), food stalls, neighborhood competitions, and free concerts that keep the party going until the early hours.

Friday is arguably the liveliest night to join the celebrations. Head to Las Vistillas for Regreso a los 80, featuring Los Refrescos, Modestia Aparte and Fernandisco, while Plaza de la Paja hosts a ‘90s party.

  • More fun before the music starts! The neighborhood fills with wonderfully eccentric traditions, from waiter races (fun!) and high-heel races (dangerous and fun!) to chotis dancers, and pasodoble competitions.

The highlight comes Saturday, when Madrid celebrates the day of the Virgin of the Dove, the “popular” patron of the city (not the same as a patron saint).

  • For devout Catholics: The day’s events begin at the Church of the Virgin of the Dove with floral offerings and a solemn Mass before one of the city’s most emotional traditions: Madrid’s firefighters bring down the Virgin’s iconic portrait from inside the church, after which thousands of people accompany the procession through the streets of La Latina.

  • For devout heretics: Once the procession ends, the party shifts back into full swing and the neighborhood goes from holy mass to unholy mess. DePol headlines the main stage at Las Vistillas, while Plaza de la Paja hosts DJs, traditional performances, family activities, and plenty of opportunities to embrace your inner castizo.

The celebrations continue on Sunday (of course), closing with another packed day of festivities, including a free concert by indie-pop favorites Miss Caffeina, live music on multiple stages, vermut, limonada, neighborhood games, and some weird competitions—from drinking out of a botijo to the classic porrón challenge.

You may be stuck here, but it doesn’t mean you can’t have the time of your life.

🖥️ What: Verbenas de la Virgen de la Paloma

📍 Where: La Latina, Plaza de la Paja, Calle de la Paloma and Jardines de las Vistillas

📅 When: Aug. 13–16 (main procession on Aug. 15 at 7:30 p.m.)

🎟 Tickets: Free admission


2. 🇵🇹 Teresinha Landeiro: Portugal's most beautiful soundtrack comes to the city

While much of the city will be drinking dancing in the streets this weekend, Veranos de la Villa is offering something altogether different: an intimate evening of Portuguese fado with one of the genre’s brightest new voices, Teresinha Landeiro.

  • Landeiro at just 30 has become one of the leading figures of a new generation of fado artists, blending the melancholy and storytelling that define Portugal’s national music with subtle contemporary influences.

  • The concert takes place in the beautiful Cloister of the Well at the historic San Isidro Institute, an atmospheric setting that feels tailor-made for the emotional intensity of fado.

Even if you’ve never listened to fado (Portugal's traditional music), this is the kind of performance that can win you over.

🖥️ What: Teresinha Landeiro live

📍 Where: Claustro del Pozo, Instituto San Isidro, Calle de Toledo 39, Madrid

📅 When: Aug. 14, 9 p.m.

🎟 Tickets: €15


3.🦜 One of Casa de Campo’s greatest hidden treasures is its wildlife. Go stalk it.

One day you’re clubbing, and the next day you’re an old lady watching birds.

Just a few minutes from the city center, there’s Casa de Campo, Madrid’s other park that you never go to because Retiro is classier and full of rich, hot people. However, did you know that Casa de Campo is home to dozens of bird species that many people walk past without ever noticing? (Of course you didn’t)

  • Great if you’re hungover. This guided birdwatching tour is a fantastic opportunity to slow down, unplug, and discover a completely different side of the city. So grab a Red Bull, your favorite sunglasses, put your phone on DND, and get ready for the kind of morning you thought you’d be experiencing in your 80s.

  • Over the course of a leisurely 2.5-hour walk, participants will explore the park’s diverse ecosystems (from wooded areas to lakeshores) while learning to identify birds of prey, woodland birds, and aquatic species through direct observation.

  • August is an interesting time for birdwatching, as some species are year-round residents while others are only passing through during the season.

  • The activity is led by guides from Casa de Campo’s Environmental Information Center, who will explain not only how to spot different birds, but also why this vast green space plays such an important role in Madrid’s biodiversity.

  • If you own a pair of binoculars (lol, you don’t), you’re encouraged to bring them, though they’re not essential to enjoy the experience.

So yeah, all your friends may be in Mallorca, Marbella, Mykonos, Ibiza, Sicily, Bodrum, San Sebastián, Tuscany, Santorini, the French Riviera, Bali, Cozumel, Miami, the Bahamas, Malta, Croatia or Albania, but at least you’re watching birds in Madrid on a scorching Sunday morning while hungover. Congrats.

🖥️ What: Guided Birdwatching Walk at Casa de Campo

📍 Where: Casa de Campo Environmental Information & Education Center (here)

📅 When: Aug. 16, 9:30 a.m. (good luck if you’re hungover)

🎟 Tickets: Free, but advance registration by email is required.


4. 🩰 Billy Elliot: Because there’s always a good reason to watch this great film again

Fun fact: In Spain, the movie Billy Elliot is called “I want to dance”. Honestly, it’s not the worst adaptation of a movie title (that dubious honor goes to Die Hard, which in Spain is called Crystal Jungle).

Anyway, it’s been more than 25 years since Billy Elliot hit theaters, and this beloved British classic remains just as funny, moving and relevant as ever.

  • Set against the depressing backdrop of the 1984 U.K. miners’ strike, it tells the story of an 11-year-old boy who discovers a passion for ballet, challenging stereotypes and expectations along the way.

  • It’s a heartwarming reminder of the importance of self-expression, acceptance and finding the courage to follow your own path. Pretty much like Star Wars, but without light sabers. ❤️

  • This special screening is part of an inclusive cinema series that pairs each film with a discussion right before the movie led by occupational therapists, exploring themes such as mental health, disability, neurodiversity and social inclusion.

The venue, CondeDuque, offers accessibility features including hearing loop technology, amplified sound and adapted access, making it a thoughtful and welcoming experience for all. Oh, and before you ask, CondeDuque says the movie is subtitled. So even if you can’t understand Spanish, you get to practice thanks to the subtitles.

🖥️ What: Billy Elliot - Inclusive Cinema Series

📍 Where: Centro Cultural CondeDuque, Calle de Conde Duque 9, Madrid

📅 When: Aug. 15 (Discussion at 8 p.m.; screening at 8:30 p.m.)

🎟 Tickets: Free but seats are limited. Get there on time.


5.💘 Venus & Cupid: Ever wondered what goes into restoring a 400-year-old masterpiece? (Probably not).

Listen up, losers! If you’re tired of those damn dating apps (polls say you are), then this is a great chance to ditch Tinder, Grindr, and the rest of the digital world and go back to the analog, OG way of meeting people: praying to Venus, the goddess of love, for sex “legitimate emotional connection”. Or to Cupid, the androgynous cherub that always looks like a 5-year-old girl that just entered a beauty pageant in Nashville.

You know… like this.

But I digress. The Thyssen Museum is giving visitors a rare behind-the-scenes look at the painstaking work of art conservation with a special exhibition dedicated to the restoration of Peter Paul Rubens’ Venus and Cupid. (Not to be confused with Paul Reubens, the guy who played Pee Wee Herman).

Anyway… It’s a great opportunity to see not just the finished masterpiece, but the invisible work that preserves it for future generations.

🖥️ What: The Restoration of Rubens’ Venus and Cupid

📍 Where: Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza (Room 19)

📅 When: Through Sept. 13

🎟 Tickets: €7


📺 What to watch if you don’t want to leave the couch this weekend…

📺 Movie: All that we never were (Todo lo que nunca fuimos) | 2026

📍Where to watch: HBO Max

What’s it about: After losing her parents, aspiring painter Leah struggles to cope. When her brother moves away, he asks his best friend Axel to look after her, unaware of her longtime feelings for him.

🤩 Why you should watch: Because Maxi Iglesias is in it. Because if you're in the mood for a sweeping rom-dram (that’s a thing), this movie delivers exactly that, pairing two charismatic leads with an emotional story about grief, healing, and unexpected love.

💬 English Subtitles: No.


📺 TV Series: The Tribute (El Homenaje) | 2026

📍Where to watch: Amazon Prime & SkyShowtime

What’s it about: At his 80th birthday party, powerful patriarch Adolfo Novak gathers family and friends. Behind smiles lie decades of secrets, betrayals, and vengeance. The evening explodes, revealing a truth more shocking than anyone suspected.

🤩 Why you should watch: Because Manu Ríos is in it. Because it’s perfect if you love family sagas packed with secrets, betrayals, and shifting loyalties. The show blends the intrigue of The Godfather with the mystery of an Agatha Christie whodunit, making it an easy binge for fans of character-driven thrillers.

💬 English Subtitles: Yes.


💃🏻 Places to try this weekend…

🍽️ Armando: There's comfort food, and then there's the kind of comfort food that deserves its own restaurant.

Instagram/Armando

What’s it about: Take one of Spain's greatest breaded cutlets (escalope), fry it to golden perfection, and let diners build their dream combination with indulgent toppings like truffle eggs, melted raclette, steak tartare, or even macaroni with chorizo.

Why you should go: Because there's no pretension, no reservations, and no complicated menu—just a lively, retro-inspired space where everything revolves around sharing good food with friends.

Bottom line: Armando delivers exactly what it promises (an iconic escalope, playful comfort food, and a meal that's impossible not to enjoy).

Address: Calle Carranza, 9, Madrid


🍦 La Romana: When the summer heat becomes unbearable, there's one place we keep coming back to.

Instagram/La Romana

What’s it about: Founded in Rimini, Italy, in 1947, Gelateria La Romana has built a loyal following thanks to its traditional, small-batch gelato made with high-quality ingredients and recipes that have stood the test of time.

Why you should go: Because nearly 80 years later, it remains one of the best places in Madrid for authentic Italian ice cream. Part of the fun is choosing from its huge selection of flavors, from timeless classics like pistachio and hazelnut to seasonal creations.

Bottom line: There are plenty of ice cream shops in Madrid, but few are as consistently excellent as La Romana.

Address: Multiple locations around Madrid (and Spain)


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Read the original on Substack