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🙏 What's on in Madrid: April 2

Jesus returns this weekend to either enact revenge on humanity or feed us chocolate eggs.

Madrid | Issue #139

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Here Are 5 Things to Do in Madrid This Weekend

Wait, what? Did we skip an issue? Is today Friday? Have you been subjected to an unscheduled time jump?

None of the above! You see, it’s the Semana Santa holiday, so we’ve combined the Thursday news edition with the Friday what-to-do one because, let’s be honest, pretty much everyone in Spain has checked out (yes, even our God-fearing politicians).

Still, because we love you, we’ve made a quick summary of some of the things that happened in Spain this week, and that pretty much no one cared about (at least until next week).

  • When Spain closed its airspace to American flights involved in its war in Iran, we got all sorts of excited and thought we should write the full newsletter because THE WORLD WAS ABOUT TO END. But with coverage outside of Spain being, like, a 243-word article in Bloomberg and a veiled threat from a U.S. Congressman we’d never heard of that Spain could lose Ceuta and Melilla (a la “Those are nice territories you have there. It would be a shame if something happened to them.“), we figured maybe we were overdoing it. Marco Rubio also complained about Spain “bragging” about cutting off its airspace, but everyone was already on their way to Granada or the Canary Islands for the week, so no one cared.

  • And then there was the hat. Pedro SĂĄnchez went mountain biking after filming himself with a “Make Science Great Again” hat trolling the Orange Menace, so we suppose he wasn’t too worried about Ceuta (or Melilla).

  • But RosalĂ­a! Rosi is back on tour for eight nights in Madrid, and everyone says it’s amaze-balls. El PaĂ­s saw the show on “Holy Monday, which we experienced in glory“; El Confidential spoke of “tears and euphoria”; El Español said Rosi “conquered” Madrid with her “thousand faces: from mysticism to rave, from opera to saeta.”; and Telva noted her artistic shoutouts, from the Mona Lisa to Goya’s Black Paintings to Madonna’s pointy bras. (Editor’s note: Adrian saw her yesterday and was blown away by her; Ian saw the Motomami tour in 2022 and blessed it as very, very good.)

  • Spanish home prices are up 14.3% in ONE YEAR. Not much else to say about that except, jeez.

  • And not only did former Public Works Minister JosĂ© Luis Ábalos meet one of his girlfriends, JĂ©sica RodrĂ­guez, in the Atocha apartment that was rented for “a party with ladies” in 2018, but she also filmed a video to celebrate his 60th birthday the next year in that very apartment. “It was here,” she said. Really, nothing more to say about that.

More news next week. For now, let’s get onto the fun, what-to-do stuff below. Enjoy the long weekend, and we’ll see you on the heretical side.

1. â›Ș Madrid goes even more Catholic for Holy Week weekend (Part 2)

Wherever we say Jesuspalooza: Part 2 - Jesus Lives, we can’t help but think of this Friday the 13th movie poster. It’s disrespectful, so let’s move on.

Thought it was over? Think again! Last week was just a preview; this long weekend is the main feature. There are more processions, more saetas, and a now-classic giant tamborrada (see video above) on Sunday at the Plaza Mayor that we recommend you don’t miss.

The official Semana Santa program we shared last week is still good (you can download it here), so here’s a quick guide to what you can do this weekend if you want to cosplay devoteness:

Paschal Triduum. For those of you non-Latin speakers who think this is some sort of Belgian tooth paste, let us remind you that the Triduo Pascual is the period that starts with the liturgy on the evening of Maundy Thursday (aka tonight), reaches its high point in the Easter Vigil (aka Saturday night), and closes with evening prayer on Easter Sunday (aka Sunday night). Yeah, that’s pretty much the whole weekend.

Processions: Yes, they are still happening. And yes, the guys who look like the KKK are still stalking the streets of Madrid, so tread carefully. (

Remember to check the official program to see their routes and start times.

Maundy Thursday (today):

  • El Divino Cautivo

  • Nuestro Padre JesĂșs del Gran Poder y MarĂ­a SantĂ­sima de la Esperanza Macarena

  • Nuestro Padre JesĂșs Nazareno “El Pobre” y MarĂ­a SantĂ­sima del Dulce Nombre en su Soledad

  • JesĂșs Nazareno y SantĂ­sima Virgen de la Soledad (Villaverde)

Good Friday:

  • Santo Entierro y SantĂ­sima Virgen de la Soledad (Villaverde Alto)

  • El Divino Cautivo (leaves from the Almudena Cathedral)

  • JesĂșs Nazareno de Medinaceli

  • SantĂ­simo Cristo de los Alabarderos

  • MarĂ­a SantĂ­sima de los Siete Dolores

  • Santo Entierro (Parroquia de Santa Cruz)

  • ProcesiĂłn del Silencio (Carabanchel)

  • Stations of the Cross at Retiro Park (not a procession but still cool)

Holy Saturday:

  • ProcesiĂłn de la Soledad y Desamparo

Saetas: People are still singing these Andalusian religious songs from the balconies, and yes, you can go see them.

Maundy Thursday:

  • 6:30 PM — Ismael de la Rosa, Casa de la Villa (Plaza de la Villa)

  • 9:15 PM — Saray Muñoz, Hotel Moderno (Calle del Arenal 2)

  • 9:30 PM — Ismael de la Rosa, Real Casa de Correos (Puerta del Sol)

Good Friday:

  • 9:00 PM — JosĂ© Fernando Caballo, Casa de la Villa (Plaza de la Villa)

  • 9:15 PM — Fernando Caballo, Casa de la Villa (Plaza de la Villa)

  • 9:50 PM — JosĂ© “El Berenjeno”, ConsejerĂ­a de Medio Ambiente (Calle AlcalĂĄ, 16)

  • 10:15 PM — LucĂ­a BeltrĂĄn, Real Casa de Correos (Puerta del Sol)

Holy Saturday:

  • 6:30 PM — LucĂ­a BeltrĂĄn, Casa de la Villa (Plaza de la Villa)

Tamborrada: This show is how Madrid closes Semana Santa, but instead of silence and slow processions, it ends with noise. Lots of it.

  • Organized by the Real e Ilustre CongregaciĂłn de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad y Desamparo, and performed by the CofradĂ­a de la ExaltaciĂłn de la Santa Cruz de Zaragoza, it takes place on Easter Sunday and basically flips the mood of the entire week.

  • After days of solemnity, mourning, and heavy symbolism, the city suddenly fills with drums, loud, rhythmic, impossible to ignore. It’s less about reflection and more about release.

  • The drummers parade through the city in a kind of controlled chaos, turning the Plaza Mayor into a full-on soundscape. It’s a moment that’s less about watching and more about feeling the city vibrate.

Ruta Dulces Pasiones de Semana Santa: The Ruta Dulces Pasiones 2026 food route turns the city into a full-blown tribute to the torrija, with bakeries, pastry shops, and restaurants offering everything from the classic version (milk-soaked, fried, and drenched in sugar or honey) to more experimental takes. Click on that link for a list of all participating bakeries and cafes in Madrid.

  • If you’re wondering what to eat besides torrijas to follow tradition, make sure you try Soldaditos de Pavia (an Andalusian tapa that’s fried cod wrapped in a slice of roasted red pepper), potaje de vigilia (a stew made with chickpeas, spinach, and cod, cooked slowly), and (of course), chocolate Easter eggs.

Have a blessed weekend!

2. đŸ“· Before Instagram, there was Oriol Maspons, and Madrid is bringing him back

This one is for people who like culture and photography (so, hopefully, you?).

At the Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, Madrid is hosting a retrospective of Oriol Maspons, one of the photographers who basically helped Spain figure out how to look at itself in the second half of the 20th century (aka the Franco era), in a sharp, ironic, very human one.

  • Maspons moved effortlessly between worlds: fashion, street photography, portraiture, and editorial work. One day he was capturing everyday life, the next he’s shooting for major magazines, and somehow it all feels part of the same visual language. His style is direct, sometimes playful, sometimes brutally honest, but always intentional.

  • This is also not your typical “walk around quietly and pretend you understand everything” exhibition. His work is accessible, and you don’t need a degree in photography to get it. You just need eyes—and maybe a bit of curiosity about how Spain changed, culturally and socially, during those decades.

This is basically a masterclass in visual storytelling

đŸ–„ïž What: Oriol Maspons Photo Exhibit

📍 Where: Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, Calle de Alcalá 13, Madrid

📅 When: Through June 14

🎟 Tickets start at €10

3. đŸ‘Ÿ There’s a Stranger Things reunion happening this weekend in Madrid, and yes, you can meet the cast

If Semana Santa isn’t exactly your thing (or you’d rather swap incense for the Upside Down), we have options.

  • Stranger Fan Meet lands at IFEMA this weekend, bringing a solid chunk of the Stranger Things cast to the city. We’re talking Noah Schnapp (Will), Caleb McLaughlin (Lucas), Dacre Montgomery (Billy), Cara Buono (Karen Wheeler), and more, all in one place, ready to meet fans who are still not over the fact that the finale sucked show is actually over.

  • The whole thing is exactly what you think it is: Q&As, autographs, photos with the actors, and a lot of people who know way too much about Hawkins. You can lean into it as much as you want (from casual curiosity to full fan mode), and yes, there will absolutely be people dressed like Eleven.

It’s chaotic, a bit intense, and very fan-driven, but that’s also the point. If you grew up with the show (or binged it in one weekend like a normal person), this is basically your chance to step inside that universe, minus the demogorgons.

đŸ–„ïž What: Stranger Fan Meet 9 – The Tour

📍 Where: IFEMA Madrid (Hall 5), Avenida del Partenón 5, Madrid

📅 When: April 4–5

🎟 Tickets start at €69

4. 🎭 Bergman, but make it local: a quietly brutal theatre experience at Teatro Español

If your idea of a good night out involves zero small talk and a mild existential crisis, this one’s for you. The Teatro Español is staging a Bergman adaptation directed by Ernesto Caballero, which already tells you the vibe: intense, intimate, and not exactly light entertainment.

  • The play unfolds in an empty theatre, where a veteran director starts reflecting on his life, his work, and, inevitably, the messy overlap between the two. Then a young actress walks in, and what starts as a casual conversation slowly turns into something much sharper.

  • What follows is less “plot” and more emotional excavation. Old relationships resurface, including a complicated connection with a former actress who links both characters in ways that are
 not simple. There’s tension, resentment, admiration, and that very Bergman-esque obsession with how art and life blur into each other until you can’t really separate them anymore.

It’s the kind of play where not much happens, but everything matters. If you’re into theatre that leans psychological, uncomfortable, and very human, this will land. If you’re looking for something easy
 maybe stick to Stranger Things.

đŸ–„ïž What: Ingmar Bergman’s After the Rehearsal

📍 Where: Teatro Español (Sala Margarita Xirgu), Calle del PrĂ­ncipe 25, Madrid

📅 When: April 4 – May 17

🎟 Tickets start at €18

5. 👗 Corsets, drama, and designers: what happens when Balenciaga meets the 19th century

Yes, Fashion Week may be over, but if you’re still interested in the subject matter, here’s a chance to time-travel to the 19th century and lean into some different outfits.

  • The Museo del Romanticismo is hosting an exhibition that reimagines romantic-era fashion through the lens of modern designers like Balenciaga, Pertegaz, and Pedro RodrĂ­guez.

  • There are dramatic silhouettes, historical references, and a lot of fabric, all curated by people who know how to make it look good in 2026.

  • The interesting part is how it’s set up: these pieces don’t just sit there looking pretty; they’re placed in dialogue with the museum’s permanent collection, which makes the whole thing feel less like a fashion exhibit and more like a conversation across centuries.

  • You also get original sketches and designs from Pedro RodrĂ­guez, which adds a nice behind-the-scenes layer to all the glamour.

And if you’re the kind of person who likes a bit of context (or just wants to sound smart later), there are guided visits, workshops, and talks to go with it.

đŸ–„ïž What: Ecos de la moda romĂĄntica Exhibit

📍 Where: Museo del Romanticismo, Calle de San Mateo 13, Madrid

📅 When: Through June 7

🎟 Tickets start at €3

đŸ“ș What to watch if you’re staying in this weekend


đŸ–„ïž What: If it’s Tuesday, it’s Murder (Si es martes, es asesinato) | TV Show | 2026

📍Where to watch: Disney+

❓What’s it about: A group of Spanish tourists on an organized trip to Lisbon find themselves investigating a murder after one of them is killed on the first morning. As they try to find the killer among the group, they also visit some of the most beautiful Lisbon sites.

đŸ€© Why you should watch: Because it’s Knives Out meets Only Murders in the Building. It takes the classic whodunit formula and gives it a playful twist, mixing humor, satire, and mystery in a way that feels fresh and different from the traditional crime drama. It’s self-aware, the characters are exaggerated, and the mystery is engaging enough to keep you guessing without demanding too much from you. Also, Lisbon!

💬 English Subtitles: Yes

đŸ’ƒđŸ» Places to try this weekend


☕ CafĂ© GijĂłn is back, just not exactly as you remember it

Wikipedia

What’s it about: The legendary CafĂ© GijĂłn is back (after being closed for five months), but under new ownership and with a very different vibe. The historic literary cafĂ© (it opened in 1888) now leans toward a more polished, international concept, complete with a revamped menu and a subtle (or not so subtle) introduction of U.S.-style suggested tipping.

Why you should go: Because it’s still CafĂ© GijĂłn (or at least it looks like it). The classic interiors are intact, the history is very much there, and it remains one of those places you go for the atmosphere as much as the coffee.

Bottom line: A cultural institution going through a bit of an identity crisis. Worth visiting once, if only to decide how you feel about it.

Address: Paseo de Recoletos 21, Madrid

💿 Fenómeno is a new bar where you actually listen to the music

Instagram/FenĂłmeno

What’s it about: A hi-fi listening bar where music isn’t background noise; it’s the main event. Inspired by Japanese jazz kissas, Fenómeno is built around vinyl, carefully curated DJ sets, and a custom sound system designed to make you actually hear every detail.

Why you should go: Because here, the vibe is the music. Funk and disco from the 80s and 90s played on vinyl, a sound system with 20 handcrafted speakers, and a crowd that’s there to listen, not shout over it.

Bottom line: A stylish, slightly obsessive temple for music lovers, come for the sound, stay for everything else.

Address: Calle de Recoletos 13, Madrid.

đŸ‘šđŸ»â€đŸ’» Viral Memes of the Week

🎉 Happy Semana Santa!

✍ You have to admit the ingenuity

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Read the original on Substack